Banquet Horse: Notes Toward a Memoir with Topazia Alliata
The Banquet Horse
Banquet Horse: the phrase slips from the end of a dream and stays with me after the dream has melded in irretrievable shadows. All that’s left is Banquet Horse, something I hold onto, whatever it is—odd and never uttered before—maybe a combination of banquet hours and banquet house, but not either of them. It stirs up an image of wood planks covered with a white cloth under chestnut trees and elms. It reminds me of the final scene in “Mostly Martha,” a movie about a German chef who, after her sister dies in a car accident, goes through the life-altering drama of caring for her pre-teen niece until she finds the girl’s Italian father. Reunited at last, the family does what people have done since the Prodigal Son’s father ordered the fatted calf slaughtered: throw a banquet in the farmyard. It takes me, via a Joycean “vicus of recirculation,” back to Rome and a visit to my Friend Topazia in 2002.
At 89, thanks to healthy eating and good genes, Topazia still reads two newspapers a day, those books her daughters recommend, exhibition catalogues, art journals. She still stays up well past midnight, and if she doesn’t move as quickly as she once did, she says it could be worse. When I write that we’re planning to see her on our visit to Rome, she has her daughter e-mail: “of course you will stay here.” She lives outside the center of Rome, on the corner of Via Bari and Via Como, a section north of the train station in a sprawling complex that originally housed railway workers.
*
The Perfection of Cheese and Pears
To prepare for a “family dinner” on Sunday, she drags a two-wheeled shopping cart downstairs, through her building’s courtyard, out the gate and down the street to the market in nearby Piazza Lecce.
She buys chickory and pears. Bread “al grano duro,” meaning hard grain. It lasts longer than the day-long lifespan of normal Italian bread; the crust is hard, the inside is soft, and the blended flavors of crust and crumb layer the foundation of western civilization. She buys tomatoes and onions, a small container of milk, a quarter kilo of coffee. What cheeses does she buy? There are so many to choose from—from soft spreadable cheeses to parmigiano reggiano, hard and perfect for grating, or sliced and eaten by itself. That evening, when it is just the three of us for dinner, Topazia says a rhyme: “Al contadino non far sapere quanto è buono il formaggio con le pere” or “don’t let the peasants know how delicious cheese tastes with pears.” Otherwise, they’d be eating pears and cheese all day and wouldn’t go back to work. The pears are a perfection of juice and pulp and sweetness, and must be eaten immediately. The cheese must accompany them. What kind? Maybe a caciotta out of Umbria. For dessert there is ice cream topped with Amaro d’Abruzzi.
*
Amaro
Italian amaro is one of those specialty liquors concocted with herbs and roots and flowers. It sometimes resembles used motor oil with a medicinal flavor. Sometimes it transforms, once in your mouth, from a taste like my grandmother’s Sen-sens to a sublime and complex and honeyed dissonance, like the opening chords in Bach’s Toccata and Fugue. Every region boasts its own amaro; families pass recipes down through generations. An alchemy of aromatic herbs, roots, bitter orange.
In Perugia, I went to the pharmacy to buy a remedy for Joan’s upset stomach. The pharmacist sold me an over-the-counter Italian version of Tums. Then, because I was a foreigner trying valiantly to speak Italian, he reached under the counter and gave me a liter of “Amaro del Droghiere,” “Druggist’s Bitters,” which he made himself. He counseled me to drink a small glass after eating to aid digestion. “Never before,” he said.
An other time, in Venice we’d gone to a trattoria near our pensione in the Rialto neighborhood. Typical Americans, we were early, eating supper long before the more civilized hour of nine. It was the year Joan was on a quest for the perfect spaghetti with tomato sauce. Our waiter, an insolent young man who had worked in an Italian restaurant in London for several years, stiffened and said, “Madame. You come all the way to Venice for Spaghetti con Pomodoro?”
Because seppia, a relative of squid, was sold in the Rialto market and available on every menu, and since I’d never had it before, I asked what it’s like.
“It’s fine,” the waiter said with the same air of disdain. “I have it every day. It’s not monkey brains, you know.” I asked if he knew Eugenio Montale’s book of poems, “Ossi di Seppia,” or “Cuttlefish Bones.” He had heard of it, but hadn’t read it. And so, in honor of Montale, I ordered the seppia.
He delivered Joan’s spaghetti with a snort.
“And here is your Ossi di Sepia,” he said, setting down a bowl of black broth. I expected something that black to be pungent, with the lingering odor of things washed up from the sea. But it was fresh and delicate and chewy, as mild as squid, and turned my teeth and tongue and lips black. Beneath it, a square of crisp polenta retained its yellow color and firm texture.
When the waiter cleared the dishes, I asked if he could recommend an amaro to complement the after-dinner espresso. He said he would bring out a bottle for us. If we didn’t like it, he’d give us any other amaro we’d like—Amaro Zuccaro, Amaro Nonino—“But first you must try this.”
I poured. A light viscosity of dirty bronze tinged with gold filled the cordial glasses. And it was magic, lifting our meal from merely delicious to truly memorable, an apotheosis fusing the assorted flavors into a deep, hazy satisfaction that ran so deep it embraced the realm of the metaphysical. The essence of food became one with our bodies; the essence of our bodies became one with the universe.
There was no label. “It’s called Elissir Speciale,” the waiter said with his characteristic hauteur, “and it’s not for sale.” A friend of the trattoria owner makes a small batch of it every year. When it’s gone, too bad.
Some Amaros can’t be imported to the US because the recipes are such a closely held secret. Elissir Speciale was almost certainly one of these.
*
Banquet Flowers
Topazia sends Joan and me to the flower vendor in Piazza Lecce. We pick through explosions of daisies, asters, alstroemeria, roses, carnations, their stems dunked in plastic buckets. We return with armloads of white, red, yellow, a rampant outrage of colors. Topazia asks me to fetch vases from the upper shelves as she trims the stems, efficiently setting them in groups of matching and contrasting color and height, drawing on her experience in Kyoto before the war. Friends suggested, when she said she’d like to learn about Zen, that she apprentice to a master flower arranger. In the end, she attained the skill and inner stillness, the flash of insight necessary to be recognized as a Master flower arranger herself. It’s very important, she said, to arrange them in clusters of three.
*
Construction of the Banquet Table
On Sunday, Mario arrives early. He goes to Topazia’s daughter’s room which was left intact after she died. A large orange and blue painting by Mohamed Melehi fills the wall above the bed. Posters of her recitals line the wall opposite. A blue writing desk, a chair with a wicker seat. Mario, an architect with black hair and beard, Yuki’s partner when she died, leans out the open window, smoking.
Topazia tells him which tables to bring into the dining room, to arrange end to end. Glass-paned doors set the dining room apart from the hallway and kitchen. A bowl of oranges and apples rests on a small corner table under the window. Along the wall, a dark walnut sideboard holds dishes and stemware—Topazia’s final connection to her family home in Sicily. Mario takes four wooden blocks from the bottom drawer to make the kitchen table level with the two other tables.
With the authority of a shop foreman, she directs Mario: which leg to lift, to slide the block under, which to do next. And though he’s done this a hundred times, there is a certain ritual to follow. Tablecloths give the illusion of a single long table. She arranges the plates and silver. The heirloom glasses. Sixty or seventy years ago, everything matched. But now, in her ninetieth year, the most important thing is bringing people together and making the chemistry unfold.
*
Banquet Conversation
Family dinner includes Topazia, her daughters Dacia and Toni, granddaughter Nur, Mario, and friends. There is 95½ year-old-Daisy who has known Topazia more than sixty years; Pina, who operates a resort on Lake Bracciano, renting rooms to tourists and vacationers; a photographer whose name I don’t remember; and an American film critic.
Pina brings the salad. Toni, the bread. I’ve brought two bottles of Prosecco. Dacia has brought pasta dressed with olive oil and roasted tomatoes. Because Topazia and her daughters are vegetarian, the main dish is melanzane—eggplant with cheese and diced onion and tomato. And there is talk.
Always talk.
Dacia and Topazia disagree over where wine corks come from.
“Quercia,” Topazia says. “Oak.”
“But Mamma,” Dacia says, “There is a special cork tree, grown just for the purpose of wine corks.”
She speaks patiently, with the authority that comes from being both a writer and the daughter of vintners.
“And that is oak,” says Topazia, who had been the vintner until forced to sell the family vineyard when the local government raised her taxes. The wine she’d produced had been exquisite, winning awards and acclaim throughout Europe. The current owners produce massive amounts of cheap wine, “good only for the ballast of ships.”
Topazia had asked that I not wear jeans—she called them ‘dungarees,’ since it was going to be a special occasion. I wore the one pair of good trousers I’d packed, and a black shirt. Black suited me, Topazia said, contrasting well with my white hair and beard.
The critic arrived in red shorts, faded t-shirt from “The Flaming Lips” concert tour, and flip flops.
*
The Wine Tasting
As a teenager, her father entrusted her to represent the family’s wines in different competitions and expositions across Europe. She watched the wine judges hold anonymous glasses of wine to the light before sipping and swishing in their mouths. After attending several of these events, she became a kind of mascot to Count Ruffino, Baron Ricasoli and other elders of the wine world. But she was serious about the family wine, and after winning several competitions, the wine royalty thought it might be amusing to give her the master wine taster test, which can only be administered by other master wine tasters.
Her father, the Duca di Salaparuta, showed her the ins and outs of wine, the importance of tannin, proper aging. He was an independent thinker and saw no reason why a woman should not excel in the wine business. His simple but effective strategy was to have her learn from the best: every day he poured a noble wine from his cellar, pointing out its salient qualities, its terroir, vintage, the grape varietals. She later had to define those qualities herself, elaborating on what made a particular wine memorable, what flaws made it mediocre, what made a disastrous wine “ill.”
The master wine taster test was much the same. She gave a full and accurate description of each wine she was presented, passing judgment on good, better, best. In the end, thanks to her father’s excellent instruction, and to Ricasoli, Ruffino and other captains of the wine industry, she passed. No longer just the pretty mascot who represented her family’s vineyard, she was a wine expert, a connoisseur, and for many years my friend Topazia Alliata was the only woman master wine taster in all of Europe.
*
Enrico Alliata, Duca di Salaparuta
Topazia’s father studied Buddhism and Theosophy. Annie Besant was a friend, Krishnamurti stayed at the family home in Casteldaccia. The church did not occupy the central part in his life that it did for his fellow Sicilians who, on the feast of St. Joseph, carry the saint’s statue out of the church and through the streets. He did not observe holy days or his Easter duty.
Topazia, said that when she was a girl and went to confession, the priest asked what good works she had done to help merit her a place in heaven.
She said, “I read to my father.”
“That is very good of you,” the priest said, “and it honors your parents as the commandment says. What are you reading to him?”
“The life of Buddha,” she said.
The priest sputtered, furious. It is forbidden for Christians and most especially Catholics to read that book. If she persisted reading it, he would certainly go to hell, and Topazia will follow. Therefore she must stop at once. From that moment on, Topazia shut the church out of her life; its teachings were like dried breadcrumbs pecked at by scavenger birds.
When her father’s eyesight began failing, the doctors held little hope. He thought he might improve his condition with better nutrition, and began experimenting with a vegetarian diet. Enrico’s eyesight stopped deteriorating, and he thought if he continued to observe proper nutrition, he might actually improve his vision to say nothing of giving himself a longer, healthier life. Not content with merely eliminating meat from his diet, Enrico Alliata also studied nutrition and in 1930 published the first vegetarian cookbook in Italy (Cucina Vegetariana e Naturismo Crudo).
His Granddaughter Toni said, when she showed me the first edition of the cookbook, that Enrico was constantly in the kitchen, cooking, experimenting, making notes with the curiosity and rigor of a scientist, tasting with the palate of a gourmet, combining ingredients with the imagination of an artist.
*
The Banquet Table
Though he wasn’t above chiding others for eating more omnivorously (puzza di cadavere he’d say when he smelled meat cooking), he didn’t insist that others follow his strict vegetarianism. He was a teacher and explorer, not a tyrant.
When Topazia was ten, she watched peasants slaughter a goat. It was to be a community celebration, almost as festive as the feast that would follow. Carried along by the tide of communal excitement and her own curiosity, she was eager to see it. The animal had been selected months before, shortly after it had been weaned. On the fated day, they brought it on a leash to the shade of a large tree. Topazia stood with the woman and children watching the men hoist it upside down by its hind legs, it’s black tongue sticking out. It brayed and bawled loudly, eyes wide and feral with terror as the men seized its horns and forced its head back. It cried as a child might, Topazia said as she looked on, horrified. The goat wailed to the sun, the moon and the stars while one of the men triumphantly slit its throat. The animal twitched and went limp, the blood draining into a bucket. The men cheered and dipped their hands into it, smearing blood on their faces and arms as though enacting a pagan rite. They skinned the carcass, sliced out the guts, saving the organ meat and tripe. They cut off the horns to use as knife handles or amulets or buttons.
Topazia said she was the only one who mourned the death of the goat.
Returning home from the celebratory slaughter, she told her father that she, too, was ready to become a vegetarian.
*
Banquet Conversation II
In Italy, Robert Mitchum has become something of a screen icon in a similar way that Jerry Lewis captivates the French. Something about his masculinity combined with vulnerability that appeals to the Italian sensibility. The critic, who curated a university film archive in the US, had personally delivered reels of three Mitchum movies for a film festival in Rome. He reserved seats for the canisters, the way a symphony cellist buys a seat for a Strad or Amati, constantly checking its humidity in the dry, recirculating air at 35,000 feet.
He had spent time in Rome years earlier, living out of a car before going to stay in one of the rooms Elizabetta rented to foreigners and artists on Via del Teatro Pace, where I also stayed in the spring of 1968.
When those gathered at the table learn of his expertise, the conversation shifts to Italian film and which is the best. He instantly says that “Open City” is the most important one, setting the neo-realist standard for the great Italian films of the fifties. Fellini had helped write the screenplay, it was filmed on the streets of Rome immediately following the occupation. Mario, himself an authority on film, and feeling his pride surge, says certainly it is a seminal film. However, you must agree that “The Bicycle Thief” is the masterpiece of the era, and inspired the blossoming of post-war cinema. They speak in Italian, though it isn’t entirely necessary, everyone at the table speaks passable English.
The critic bristles, raising his voice as he defends his position, reiterating his points, while Mario speaks with the patient, calm assurance of a professor with a stubborn student. We watch the back and forth like spectators at a tennis match. No one enters the fray to deliver a more authoritative view, or to philosophically say that they are both great movies, or the artistic view that when you are in the presence of a painting that moves you, it is the best in the world, engaging your focus and your psyche. It’s as if time disappears, and for a moment you are in a wordless dialogue with the art. You might move onto another painting, maybe by another artist, and feel that suddenly it is the best in the world. You would be right on both counts.
*
Someone mentions the mid-term elections coming up in America. It is 2002 and the invasion of Iraq is growing more certain and imminent. Donald Rumsfield has already pitched “The Coalition of the Willing,” and “The New Europe,” as opposed to the old, tired Europe. In Congressional dining rooms, French Fries have been rebranded Freedom Fries.
The critic bemoans the lack of a candidate he can support. One is just as bad as the other, he says, and if there were a decent third-party candidate, he would feel more enthusiastic. Barely two years earlier, the Supreme Court decided the election in favor of George W. Bush, stopping the ongoing series of recounts in Florida. I said it was silly to expect purity in politics. If Nader hadn’t drawn so many votes from John Kerry in Florida, I said, the United States wouldn’t be revving its war machine right now. At least, he says, he has a clear conscience. I quote a line from Szymborska’s “In Praise of a Guilty Conscience”: “Nothing is more bestial than a clear conscience on the third planet from the sun.” I see Dacia nodding from the corner of my eye. She has recently written a front-page rebuttal to Oriana Falacci’s condemnation of the entire Arab world following the 9/11 attacks. Suffering, Dacia began, marches under no one’s flag.
Tasting Wine
“Bring me another bottle,” Topazia said. It was more than a demand, it was Topazia wearing her mantle of authority as a wine connoisseur and master taster. She was too egalitarian to play the princess card, but she was offended that someone would serve an inferior wine. The waiter trembled slightly as he picked up the bottle to carry back to the kitchen.
A group of us, on one of those improvised evenings that Topazia loved (“this is how we do it in Rome, all’ improvviso” she frequently said), had gone to a trattoria that was starting to gain a reputation for superlative wine. Like other family-owned restaurants that populate Rome, this one featured white tablecloths, waiters who appear at your table the instant you make eye contact with them, and the expectation you and your group will be there for hours.
Topazia had interrogated the waiter about the wines and ordered a bottle of—what. Chianti? Barolo? My memory’s too flawed, the Italian too rapid for me to follow. It was red wine, I’m certain. She said, “You must always get red.” There had been a recent scandal where someone had discovered that vintners were adulterating white wine for the sake of clarity. “You don’t know what they put in it,” she said. “Besides, red wine has tannin, which is very good for you.”
The waiter, when he brought the bottle to the table, looked for an alpha male to give the sample, to wait for his nod to pour. Topazia assertively held up her glass for the first taste, telling him to give it to her. The waiter, uneasy with breaking tradition, paused a beat, and seeing no objection, held a napkin to the bottle’s neck and poured an inch into her glass. She swirled it, held it to the light, and sniffed, frowning. Taking a sip, she held it in her mouth a second and spat it into the glass. “È brutto!”
“It’s an ugly wine. Take it back.”
The waiter’s face instantly deflated. Wooden and numb and astonished that she or anyone would turn back their wine.
“Terrible,” she said after sampling the next bottle. She sent the following two back also, waving her hand dismissively. With a slow, sullen gravity, the waiter returned each one to the kitchen, maybe to pour out, maybe to add to the vat of house wine. Were they trying to hustle inferior wine at inflated prices because a woman was ordering, or that we were speaking English and therefore gullible? Maybe they had taken delivery of a bad batch, or the labels had been switched by counterfeiters.
The talk of the table was art, and people in the art world. The art critic Villa had joined the Jesuits who paid for his education. After earning his Ph.D., he thanked his superiors for everything and left the order. He couldn’t help it, he said, he’d lost his vocation. They admired his chutzpa. “How could he fake being a Jesuit all those years?” “Oh, he’s very good.” “And very, very smart.”
The manager delivered the fifth bottle personally, bowing and offering the signora his most sincere apologies for the previous bottles. She tasted and said in a quiet but cajoling voice, almost a whine, that she’d brought these people because the trattoria was so highly recommended. “It’s acceptable, but barely. Don’t you have anything better?”
“Of course, signora,” he said reverently.
“Delicious,” she said on sampling bottle number six. “This is the one you should always bring out first.”
The judgment of a master wine taster could have disastrous consequences if she determines a restaurant is foisting lousy wine on an unsuspecting public. A bad report would spread through her network and expand far beyond until the only patrons of that particular trattoria would be tourists. So the manager brought bottle after bottle of excellent wine to our table; the chef personally delivered bowls of fish soup and rustic bread, on the house.
*
Eating the Cork
In addition to the vineyard, there was an oak grove on the property her family had owned in Sicily. I didn’t think to ask how many corks could be gotten from a single tree. More and more vineyards have switched to screw-top bottles or plastic corks, partly to eliminate that one bottle in twenty ruined by a bad cork. Wine merchants will replace one of those bottles at no charge and “eat the cork.” Despite the spoilage, cork is an ideal stopper for wine bottles since it allows the right amount of oxygen to interact with the wine during storage. And it is a renewable resource. The bark grows back, and in nine to thirteen years is ready to be harvested again.
*
The End of the Banquet
What is Pina saying? How delicious the food has been? She has the kind of face that shows she’s interested in everything. Her ruddy cheeks and quick smile reminds me of Evelyn, my mother’s best friend in high school. Does she mention her resort? A little. She says how delicious the food is. Yes. Certainly. We all drink wine which has not been corked. I am reaching through memory with a pair of long, fine pointed tweezers, trying to extract this one bit. I am like a free diver wearing a single fin, propelling myself deeper, not to set the record, but for something on the bottom, a glint penetrating the murk. I hold my breath and descend. Pina. Pina. Oh Pina, do not go dark on me like the dream that started this chapter. Pina with the light brown hair and sun freckles. Yes, the weather has been perfect on the lake. Her garden is doing brilliantly. I’m hoping she’ll invite us to visit for a night or two, but she is booked through the end of the season.
Because it’s Toni’s birthday, Nur brings cake. White frosting and thin strips of chocolate curving and curling on the top and sides like post-modern architecture. A candle is lit, we sing the Italian version of happy birthday, “Tanti Auguri a Te.” I give Toni a blank book we had picked up in Venice. One writer to another. The gift of paper.
*
Paper
When I was small, an aunt and uncle gave me books for Christmas. My uncle taught high school English; my aunt had written for the South Bend Tribune before she began raising a family. I remember being especially absorbed by The Battle of Britain by Quentin Reynolds, and looked forward to more books at Christmas and birthdays. Anything with airplanes was a safe bet for me. One Christmas, my father said we should give paper—blank paper—to Aunt Helen for the family gift exchange. “Let her write her own book.” Actually, after she and Uncle Charlie moved to California, she wrote a history of Palm Springs, and “Yesterday’s Artists on the Monterey Peninsula.” She lived near Henry Miller, but dismissed his writing. He was a better water-colorist than writer, she said.
The sensual experience of writing by hand is a form of meditation. The way paper resists the pencil, the way it absorbs ink, the sudden intrusion of black on the white page, the first brave argument against emptiness.
Sometimes, when someone gives me a blank book, it seems too beautiful to mar by writing in it. It needs to be broken in, words need to be crossed out, sentences written between the lines, paragraphs circled and arrows pointing out where they should be moved.
*
The book I gave Toni would have to be broken in.
*
After the Banquet
There are mountains of dishes and pots and pans. I offer to start washing, but Topazia says to leave them for the morning. Her housekeeper Agnieska will let herself in and knows there will be clean-up.
It is time leave the table and go to the parlor. The walls are covered with paintings and drawings, including two self-portraits Topazia had painted as a young art student when she and Guttuso were classmates. She wears an evening gown in one, in another she’s dressed in mountain-climbing gear. Loops of rope coil over her shoulder as she grips an ice-axe. Soon after they were married, she and her husband climbed the Matterhorn on their honeymoon.
Toni asks me to read some poems I’d published, which are based on stories Topazia told me years before about being in a Japanese prisoner of war camp. In one of them, “Pencil in the Concentration Camp,” prisoners in the camp weren’t allowed to write anything except under supervision. But sometimes a soldier tossed a pencil away because it was broken, or worn to the nub, almost not a pencil at all except there were more words left in it. Topazia told me she treasured these discarded pencils and wrote on anything—notes home to be passed to the Red Cross which made periodic visits; a journal entry; the alphabet for her children, the only children in the camp.
One poem takes place in the camp immediately after Japan’s surrender. The guards had driven off with the remaining supplies, abandoning the prisoners who had neither food nor drinking water. American planes parachuted life-sustaining supplies to the camp: K-rations, canned peaches, powdered milk. And the children, suffering from malnutrition and vitamin deficiencies, desperately needed milk. Topazia and her husband improvised a way into the cans (the air drop lacked a single can opener) and mixed the liquid from the peaches with powdered milk. The poem ends, “For two weeks… victory/was the smell of lumpy yellow milk/on their children’s breath.”
In another poem, the family was put up in a Tokyo hotel after being liberated, and the children wouldn’t leave the bathtub. All the dirt that had been ground into their skin during the years of captivity had been cleansed (they were allowed to bathe once a week in the camp, but only after everyone else had bathed, the bathwater filthy by the time it was their turn). Still they insisted on staying in the tub long after they’d become wrinkled prunes and raisins, in the unbuttoned joy of water.
Toni translates for those who had limited English.
Daisy looks to Joan, and smiling slyly says, “If I were seventy years younger, you’d have to fight me for your husband.”
*
Bronze Buddha
But now people are standing, on the point of leaving. Pina will drive Daisy back to her apartment. The photographer has already left, apologizing for her early departure, another event that afternoon. We stand in Topazia’s gallery/living room, hugging goodbye. In addition to her self portraits, there’s a drawing by Guttuso, a Palermo street scene; a blue and red pencil sketch of dancers by Severini; several prints and paintings by artists I don’t recognize. I ask about one, a horizontal line of zeros, like eggs falling off the edge of a table. She says it’s by Lenardi, though the way I remember names, she might have said Leonardi. It’s a painting that has momentum, as though the zeros are pushing from behind until each teeters into gravity. She’s displayed her African sculptures on the tops of bookcases that line the lower third of walls like wainscoting; a small bronze Buddha has its own place on a narrow ledge. She told us once it was quite valuable; the American generals gave it to her for the work she did after the war, helping evaluate family treasures the Japanese had brought to sell to GIs. The people had nothing. They were like Topazia and her family in the camp, without food or milk for their children, and had begun selling their ancestral heirlooms for hard currency. The generals, to make sure the transactions were fair, asked Topazia to evaluate them: scrolls, sculptures, netsuke. In her job interview, the generals showed her a number of objects on a table: she had to speak about each one, giving its age, its artistic merits, cultural significance, and in the end assign a value. It was very much like the master wine-taster test she took in another life. So the GI’s bought their souvenirs, and the Japanese could feed themselves and their children. Some of the pieces were too precious to be sequestered away—these went to museums.
*
A Final Cordial
She pours a bright red liquid into tiny glasses, more remnants of her family history. It is, she says, a special strawberry liqueur, available only in very small batches. We toast each other and sip; the essence of strawberries erupts on our tongues.
*
The Ticket
A brilliant October lights up the afternoon. Of that I am sure. I’m also sure that we’re staying at Topazia’s apartment and remain behind when the final guest leaves. But I’ve conflated it with another memory, and I’m positive that we’ve left with the other guests and catch a bus to the two-star Hotel Julia on Via Rasella. It’s the same street where Italian partisans ambushed a German convoy in the war, killing thirty soldiers. The Germans, in retaliation, rounded up ten Italians for every German killed. They arrested over three hundred people at random, trucked them to a cave outside of town and executed them.
We’d used our last two bus tickets on the trip to Topazia’s. I’d planned to buy more tickets for the return, but it’s a Sunday and the tobacco shops where you get the tickets are closed. The critic says he has always ridden buses without a ticket and has never been caught by an agent. We’re on the verge of calling for a taxi when Topazia remembers she has a bus ticket, which she gives to Joan. I decide to use a cancelled ticket and pretend I am traveling legitimately.
We board the bus and insert our tickets in the yellow cancellation machine which thunks approvingly. Then we inch through a clot of passengers to the less-crowded middle of the bus. Three stops on, two men in black leather coats board, each carrying a black book.
They start at the back, examining passengers’ passes and cancelled tickets, making notations in their ledgers. They work slowly, methodically, officially moving from one passenger to the next until one of them reaches us and asks for our tickets. I give him mine, bracing myself to be shown up for a complete fraud. There’ll be a fine and I’ll get kicked off the bus. The inspector looks at the ticket carefully, turns it over, pauses, makes a notation in his book, and without commenting, hands it back to me. He takes Joan’s ticket, glances at it briefly, then at Joan.
“Madame,” he tsks, wagging a finger at her.
Joan, who has the only valid ticket between us, had somehow not gotten it stamped when the cancellation machine slapped down. The passengers clustered in the back of the bus begin to snicker. The Americans are about to get booted! The inspector takes a pen, deliberately writes the date and time on the ticket and gives it back to her. He and his colleague get off at the next exit. We continue to Piazza San Silvestro, our hotel a five minute walk. The day is still brilliant.
*
The Continual Banquet
Each time we travel to Italy it is the same: Topazia takes us to her parlor/gallery and it feels like we pick up the same conversation we had the last time we saw her, four or five years before. Each time there is food, a banquet for only three, made with whatever’s fresh that day, assembled with no fuss. The bread sliced, the cheese plated and on the table. There’s always fruit. Maybe she’s tossed a salad with sliced fennel root, its satisfying crunch and lingering shadow of anise; maybe she’s composed a salad with endive. Once, for dessert, she served the three of us ricotta sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. And whatever wine is on hand. Whatever delicious wine carrying, for that day, Topazia’s personal seal of approval.